Used Car Checklist: What to Check Before You Buy

Before you go to see the car

Half of what to check when buying a used car happens before you leave home. Ask the seller for the registration number, make, model and MOT test number, then run these checks:

• The MOT record. A car's MOT test history lists every fail and advisory since 2005. Watch for advisories that keep coming back and long gaps between tests.
• The mileage. Testers log the reading at every MOT, so the car's mileage records should only ever go up.
• The MOT date. A car with only a few weeks left could need a test, and maybe repairs, soon after you buy it. Check the expiry date so you know how long you have.
• The DVLA details. The make, model, colour and engine size on the DVLA's vehicle enquiry service should match the advert.
• Safety recalls. GOV.UK has a free vehicle recall checker. Garages fix recalls for free, but you want to know someone has done the work.
• Finance, write-offs and theft. These records are private, so you need a paid history check. Most cost around £10 to £20, which is nothing next to the price of the car.

Ask a few questions on the phone as well. How long have they owned it? Why are they selling? When did it last have a new cambelt? Honest sellers answer easily, and the answers often tell you more than the advert.

Check the logbook and paperwork

Arrange to see the car at the address printed on the V5C logbook, not in a car park or a lay-by. Then go through the paperwork before you look at anything else.

• The watermark. A genuine V5C has a "DVL" watermark when you hold it up to the light.
• The serial number. Thieves stole blank logbooks with serial numbers between BG8229501 and BG9999030, and between BI2305501 and BI2800000. If the number on yours falls in either range, GOV.UK says to leave and call the police.
• The VIN. Find the vehicle identification number on the car, usually at the bottom of the windscreen and on a door pillar, and make sure it matches the logbook.
• The seller's name. The person selling should be the keeper named on the V5C. If they aren't, ask why.
• Service history. Look for stamps or invoices at regular intervals, and a receipt for the cambelt if the car is due one.

Your used car checklist on the driveway

Do your used car checks in daylight and when it's dry, as rain hides scratches and dents. Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive, because a cold engine shows problems a warm one can hide.

Outside

• Tyres. The legal limit is 1.6mm of tread. Push a 20p coin into the grooves. If you can see the outer band, the tyre is close to the limit. Uneven wear can point to tracking or suspension problems.
• Panels and paint. Look along each side for ripples, and check the gaps between panels are even. A slightly different shade on one door or wing means someone has repainted it.
• Rust. Check the sills, wheel arches and the bottoms of the doors. Bubbling paint is often rust starting underneath.
• Glass and lights. Chips in the driver's view can fail an MOT. Ask the seller to work every light while you walk round.

Inside

• Wear. The steering wheel, gear knob, pedals and driver's seat should match the mileage.
• Damp. A musty smell, wet carpets or a tide mark in the boot can mean a leak or flood damage.
• Warning lights. They should all light up when you turn the key, then go out once the engine starts.
• Electrics. Try the windows, central locking, heater, air conditioning and every button you can find.
• The extras. Check for the spare wheel or repair kit, the locking wheel nut key and both keys.

Under the bonnet

• Oil. Pull the dipstick. The level should sit between the marks, and the oil shouldn't look like thick black sludge.
• The oil filler cap. A creamy deposit that looks like mayonnaise can be a sign of head gasket trouble, although short trips in cold weather can cause it too.
• Coolant. It should be between the marks and look clean, not brown or oily.
• Leaks. Look under the engine and on the ground where the car usually sits.

The test drive

Of all the used car checks, this is the one you can't skip. Drive for at least 20 minutes if you can, on slow roads and faster ones. You need insurance to drive it, so sort this out before you set off.

• Starting up. Listen for rattles and watch the exhaust. Blue smoke means it's burning oil, and thick white smoke that doesn't clear can mean a coolant leak.
• The clutch. If it only bites right at the top of the pedal, it may be close to needing a new one.
• Gears. They should change smoothly, with no crunching or jumping out of gear.
• Brakes. The car should stop in a straight line, without pulling, grinding or a juddering pedal.
• Steering and suspension. The car should drive straight with your hands light on the wheel. Knocks over speed bumps point to worn suspension parts.

Red flags that mean walk away

A lower price can make up for some problems. Not these, so if you see any of them, thank the seller and leave:

• No V5C, or a story about it being "with the DVLA"
• The VIN on the car doesn't match the logbook
• The seller wants to meet somewhere other than the address on the V5C
• A request for a deposit before you've seen the car
• A price far below every similar car you've seen
• Mileage that dropped between MOTs with no paperwork to explain it
• The seller won't let a mechanic look at it

Most things to check before buying a used car take minutes. All of them together take about 15 minutes at home and an hour at the viewing, which is time well spent next to the cost of a bad car.

Dealer or private seller: your rights

Dealer rights come from the Consumer Rights Act 2015. A private sale is "sold as seen", so the checks you do on the driveway matter even more.

Paying and after you buy

• Pay when you collect. Bank transfer leaves a record. Only pay once you have the car, the keys and the logbook in front of you.
• Get a receipt. It should show both names, the price, the date, the reg and the mileage.
• Keep the new keeper slip. The seller gives you the green slip from the V5C and tells the DVLA about the sale. Your new logbook should arrive within a few weeks.
• Tax it straight away. Tax doesn't pass to the new owner, so you need to tax the car before you drive it home. You can do it online with the new keeper slip.
• Insure it before you drive. Set up your cover before you set off, not on the way home.

Frequently asked questions